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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.